PHILIPPA ROBINSON | Fairfax NZ News | Extracts
I MOVED to Arawa, Bougainville, on a 12-month Volunteer Service Abroad (VSA) assignment.
I am library management adviser at the new public library in Arawa - a joint initiative between the Bougainville Heritage Foundation (based in Arawa) and the Bougainville Library Trust (based in Wellington, chaired by Lloyd Jones, author of Mister Pip).
My objectives were to set up the haus stori (library) and cultural centre alongside my local counterpart. We are now working on getting writing workshops, arts and crafts workshops and an oral history project up and running.
I love the beauty. In Arawa we are lucky to have mountains on one side and the sea on the other. The market and produce here is fantastic and the people are wonderful - very friendly and kind. Frustrations are that things get done when they get done! The systems do work, it just takes time.
Day-to-day living here is very cheap. The locally produced goods are very affordable. However, anything that is imported can be expensive.
On weekends I walk into the mountains for river swims, or cycle out to Kieta Wharf for a swim and snorkel in the sea. There are many smaller islands off Arawa so we have occasional day-trips for fishing, swimming, and exploring.
The food here is amazing! Typical tropical fare: pawpaw, mango, coconut, local greens and fish are all staples. My new favourite food is the galip nut. These are about the size of an almond and as versatile.
The best way to get around is by walking or cycling. There are local buses which travel to villages outside of the main town but there is little or no transport within town. Public transport on the weekends is limited and irregular so having a bike is best.
In Arawa, there are small trade stores on every street and two main supermarkets. It is often a topic of conversation as to what is new, or missing, from the shops. When a shipment comes in there are usually text messages from the volunteers/expats letting each other know which store has flour, which has milk, etc...
Nightlife? Quiet knock-offs on the balcony at 5pm with other Kiwis/expats, evening strolls to chirps of "good night" from everyone you meet and the odd rave/boxing match at 3Rocks - the only bar in town!
My favourite part of Arawa is the hauswin (veranda) at the library - I love sitting here looking across the road to the park and watching people go by, or the students from the neighbouring high school do their work under the coconuts palm.
And the river - the water is clear and cold and the bush is lush and green, it reminds me a little of rivers in New Zealand.
If you like a hot, humid climate any time of year to visit is good. Try and time your visit for the Buka and Goroka Shows in August and September. These are both great for seeing cultural performances and for buying local arts and crafts.
Remember that Bougainville is considered a post-conflict society, but don't let it put you off. Have a look at the new tourism website, created with help by another VSA volunteer: www.bougainville.travel.
Tee-up a hiking trip with Rotokas Ecotourism Group. The company covers several hiking tracks including Numa Numa, Mt Balbi (Bougainville's highest peak), Mt Baganar, Lake Billy Mitchell and the Benua caves (some of the largest caves in the southern hemisphere).
This group is locally owned and operated and is set up to ensure all members of the community in the trekking area benefit from tourism.